Chuckie Harrison - How to Make a DIY Password Keeper Notebook

I created my own DIY password notebook, because keeping track of all these complicated passwords is just impossible!

This post will show you everything I did from start to finish to create my DIY password book. And you can download the template, so you can make your own password book exactly like mine!

The pages are 4 inches x 7 inches
There are 52 pages in the template that can be printed 2-sided for 26 pages total.
Page margins are included for binding purposes.
The cover you see here is included in the template.

My finished DIY password notebook — My completed password book.

There are lots of reasons why you might want to use a password book.

I am constantly losing and re-setting passwords! Some passwords are saved on my computer and phone, but I don’t even know what they are. I have an old password book, but it’s filled with a bunch of old and outdated passwords. It’s totally useless!

They say you should use a different password for every website. How on Earth can someone memorize that many passwords?

Did this password have an @ sign or an ! or was it an &…oh heck, I’ll just reset the password.

My browser is more than happy to save my passwords for me, but it doesn’t feel very safe…

Password book it is!

Creating my password notebook template in Adobe InDesign — I created the pdf template for my password tracker in Adobe InDesign.

Here’s the list of supplies you see in the video:

I’ve linked below to everything I used for this project. You may not need all of these supplies to complete this project, this is just a list of the supplies that I used to make this password notebook. But you’re crafty – I know you already have this stuff sitting around anyway.

This list of supplies may contain affiliate links. We may earn a commission if you use one of the links and purchase something.

Chuckie Harrison password notebook .pdf template (I highly recommend printing my .pdf files in free Adobe Reader)
Chipboard (1 Page – 8.5 x 11) – I used 2mm thick chipboard, and it is very sturdy.
Printable Glossy Vinyl Sticker Paper – You will print the cover on sticker paper.
Matte UV Laminate
Flat Edge to Smooth Out Laminate
Paper Cutter (optional) – If you need a professional quality paper cutter, the Dahle Rotary Paper Cutter you see in my videos is AMAING!
Cutting Knife
Cutting Mat
Cutting Ruler
Binding Machine – I used the Cinch Binding Machine by We R Memory Keepers.
Binding Spine – I used a 1:2 pitch, 0.625 inch, silver, Cinch binding wire.
Wire Cutters
Book Corners – These small metallic pieces will keep the corners of your book in tact.
Hammer – A small hammer to secure the metallic book corners.
Microfiber Cloth – Used to prevent damaging the book while I hammered.

Here are the step-by-step instructions to print and assemble your password tracker!

Step 1: Print the Template

To print the entire template, you need a total of 26 sheets. In the video, I printed on white cardstock. Later, I printed on 32 lb. paper. Both worked well. I always like to print on high quality paper because you can really tell the difference in the finished product.

To make sure the sides line up, it is necessary to print one side at a time. Keep in mind that home printers are far from accurate and if you print too many pages at once, you will find that things are not lining up as they should be.

When you go to print, make sure “Actual Size” is selected. (Don’t choose ‘fit to page’).

You can download the template here:

Download Password Tracker Template

What page 1 of the password notebook looks like when it's printed. — This is what the pages look like when they are first printed.

Print only the odd pages first. You can find this setting under “Pages to Print”:

Printing instructions illustrating how to select odd pages only. — Click the arrow next to “More Options.” Change “All pages in range,” to “Odd pages only.” Print the pages.

After the odd pages have printed, take the stack of paper and insert it back into the printer’s paper tray. Put the stack in the tray with the design facing up so you can read it. “Z” is on top in the picture below:

Showing how to re-insert your pages into your printer, with the Z on top. — After re-inserting the paper to print the opposite side.

Now, you’re going to print only the even pages. Select “Reverse Pages” and select “Even pages only”. Then, print again.

Printing instructions showing how to select even pages only. — Make sure “Reverse pages,” is checked, and “Even pages only” is selected before printing.

Step 2: Cut out the pages

I decided to use a precision cutting blade, mat, and ruler to get the best accuracy I could. Take your time here. You want all of the pages to be the exact same size. When I was cutting the pages, I cut the top side and the side with the smaller margin first. Then, I measured and accurately cut each page to 4in x 7in.

Cutting out each page by hand using a precision cutting blade — Use any paper cutter or paper cutting method.

Step 3: Cut Out the Chipboard

I used one 8.5in x 11in page of chipboard and cut it into two 4in x 7in pieces.

Cutting out the chipboard using a hand held precision knife — Cut out **two** pieces of chipboard to measure **4 inches x 7 inches** and set aside.

Step 4: Print the Covers, Cut them Out, and Attach the Laminate

Print the covers on sticker paper one at a time, cut out carefully, and attach the laminate ASAP.

Cutting out the cover pages on sticker paper — Carefully cut out each page after printing. I was careful not to touch the ink.

Attach the laminate:

Applying laminate to the cover — Smooth down laminate.

Next, repeat these steps for the back cover.

Then, finish the covers by attaching them to the chipboard:

Attaching the chipboard to the covers printed on vinyl sticker paper — Attach chipboard to vinyl sticker.

Inside Covers

Repeat the steps for the front cover, but cut these stickers to 4 inches by 7 inches or smaller.

Step 5: Punch holes and prepare to bind

You’ll want to punch the holes in your pages and covers, and then attach the metal corners. You can’t attach the metal corners until you punch, because they will interfere with the binding machine.

Using my The Cinch binding machine to punch holes in the pages and covers. — Pull the ruler all the way to the left.

Step 6: Attach book corners to covers.

I like to hammer only the inside of the cover to avoid smashing the corners on the outer cover.

Hammering the metal corners into the covers — Hammer each corner until secure. Put a cloth between the hammer and the corner to protect the silver corner.

Make sure the pages are in order

Once the pages are in order, you have one last step – make sure to put the back cover on top of the front cover before you bind. Then, the binding closure will be hidden between the two covers.